Living in Uganda - Update

I haven't updated the blog in some time... There has been a number of reasons for this.

First, right now Uganda is in the middle of rainy / monsoon season. Every morning I wake up to the sound of cacophony of rain drops pounding against the tin roof of my house. Imagine having a two year old banging a spoon against a metal pot. You probably think that's cute. But multiply that sound by ten-fold. Yes, it's very, very loud.

Rain means two things. First the electricity has 50 / 50 chance of going out. I have never heard the official explanation but I suspect that the rain means power lines get cut here and there thanks to fallen trees. Thanks to that I often sit in the office without power and lights. In addition, when it rains people do not go outside and everyone waits for the rains to stop.

Also, I have been heads down writing a grant proposal for my organization, South Buganda Teachers' SACCO. When I had arrived here, the manager had asked me to train them on this microbanking software. The organization had apparently paid $2,750 USD to purchase 3 used computers and this software but last week I discovered that the copy was actually a trial copy that was downloaded from the internet. So I decided to apply for a grant to purchase an actual licensed copy. After a week I finally completed the 10 page grant proposal and submitted it an hour ago.

On a side note, today people are waiting to watch the second leg of the UEFA Championship game between Lyon and Bayern. A typical scene involves a crowd of 100 gathered around a 22 inch CRT TV and stay glued to the TV until the last whistle blows. I'm going to pass and sleep early tonight so I can watch the Barcelona / Inter game tomorrow.

"Kid with a Fanta"

We boarded the bus 7 PM in Kampala and arrived in Nairobi after 13 hours on the road. It would be an understatement to say that the ride was uncomfortable. The roads were generally marked with potholes that heaved everyone into the stratosphere everytime the bus ran over one. Every time the bus shook violently, we muttered or groaned in unison. I was just glad that the bus didn't break down in the middle of night - it is not uncommon for people to be stranded for hours in the middle of nowhere.

When we arrived, we headed over to our motel and unpacked our belongings and slept for few hours. We then met our friend Collin, a native of Nairobi, who was kind enough to show us around downtown Nairobi. We grabbed lunch and first headed to the Uhuru Park which like Central Park is located in the heart of downtown.

Because Nairobi has the largest population in East Africa (at 3M), there is a true skyline and the city is vibrant and bustling with life. One observation our group made was that people in general walked faster here than people in Kampala. The city has excellent infrastructure like pothole-free oads within the city limits. There are multi-laned roads and drivers that actually pay attention to stop lights!

During the day the city is generally safe as long as you don't do anything that attracts the attention of thieves. However at night, it can be very dangerous as the city is generally poorly lit in many parts and create an environment suitable for crime. In fact, Nairobi is sometimes called "Nairobbery." To be fair, the city has become safer but incidences of crime is still very high.

And there were also some nuisances... many kids prowl in the streets looking for mzungus whom they accost for money. I consider myself compassionate but when it comes to handing out cash, I am strongly against it. Plus, my program coordinator shared that many kids live on the streets instead of going into an orphanage or foster homes because these kids make bank by begging.

We had a number of encounters with street kids but this particular one event sticks out in my mind. We were coming back to the hotel when a swarm of three kids each tagged along, their hands open and wide for donations. The kids usually put one hands in their mouth and say "Shilling for food." Usually, we try to coach them:

Example:

Kid #1: Jambo(hello)! Money please (sticks his hand out).
Me: Do you go to school? Son, if you go to school and learn, you can earn lots of money.
Kid #1: Please... money...
Me: I am giving this advice for free. This advice alone is priceless. You need to learn how to catch a fish instead of having them handed to you. Go to school. Be an inspiration like President Obama.
Kid #1: No...
Me: Trust me. Yes, you can!

But that day, one of the kids approached us clutching a Fanta in his hand. In Africa, soft drinks are relatively pricey and drinks aren't something that you would buy unless you had money. Our pauper offered his free hand out to us. Scott was incredulous...

Scott: Is that a Fanta?
Kid #2: Money please, sir.
Scott: No, no, no. If you can afford a Fanta, you can definitely afford a meal.
Kid #2: I need food.
Scott: Where did you the money to buy this soda? Did you steal it? That's a crime did you know?

The kid of course scrambled and darted away... So make sure you don't give cash to people - if they are truly hungry, offer them food.

But there are definitely advantages being in a city of this size - there were a number of restaurants serving great food. So we went to a place that served excellent pizza. Scott looks especially pleased in this picture.

 

"It's Over" the Sequel

I just remembered a sequel story to the “It’s Over” entry I had posted earlier.

Maurice, our waiter at Bananah Chick, is a young guy in late teens who loves the Arsenal football team. We trade jokes and banter around whenever I run into him. Fennie, Scott, and I had swung by one night to catch the Real Madrid game on TV and grab something to eat. Maurice greeted me by shouting “Jay! From China!” I of course told him he looked Kenyan.

As we started to order our food Maurice rattled off which items were “over” in an animated fashion. Every time we asked for something that was unavailable, he would slap his hand against his head and groan “My God, that’s out too.”

Fennie had asked for some scrambled eggs and Maurice responded by telling her that it was “finished”. Hearing this expression for the first time, we asked if “finished” meant “over.” He nodded head and rattled off an encounter he had with few Germans few months back...

These Germans wanted to order some sausages that were listed on the menu. Maurice told them that “sausages are finished” but Germans mistook it for sausages being ready to be served . After thirty minutes, the Germans were livid from waiting.
German: Where are the sausages?
Maurice: It’s finished.
German: I know it’s finished so where is it?
Maurice: Not here.
German: What? Are you telling me that you don’t have sausages?
Maurice: Oh my God, Yes. That’s why I said it’s finished.

We all thought this was pretty hilarious.

Water Harvesting Tank Part II - Q&As

After posting my last entry, I received a number of great questions. I think this is a reflection of my poor writing skills so let me make a second attempt to provide better details.

Q1: What's the point of creating this water tank if it'll be easily contaminated and breed mosquitoes? Isn't this just a "quick fix" that will later cause more problems?
A1: Because the completed water tanks are sealed by the heavy plastic, nothing will go in or out except through the wooden door / latch. (See the last picture from the previous posting). Contamination will only occur if users leave the door open and unattended for an extended period of time.

Q2: You are proposing that rain water is used for consumption. Rain water is not clean in most places. Won't that make people sick too?
A2: Other than rain, rural villagers only have distant, contaminated wells as an alternative source. These wells get contaminated because they are uncovered, pollution, other contaminants like animal / human feces enter the well. Also the government even advises those who have access to tap water to boil it before drinking.

On the other hand rain water is quite safe compared to the alternatives. Rain water is mostly used for washing, irrigation, and animals. In fact, rain water can be boiled and safely consumed afterwards. 

Q3: Are you trying to build a water tank for each household so that each family has close access to water?
A3: We have built water tanks for communities as well as individual households. If there is a cluster of houses in an area, we will build a tank for the community. If the family lives in a remote area, we will build one for the family.

Q4: Who gets the first water tank? I'm guessing that there is a huge demand?
A4: REAP and our FSD team will give priority to households that have a large number of children (ex: 5+ kids) or a family with a single parent. Other factors like distance to the nearest source of water will be used as a criteria.

Q5: How long does it take to fill up the tank?
A5: Uganda has two periods of rainy season per given year. During the three months of heavy rain, rain will fall copiously and heavily for few hours, sometimes days at a time. Although exact time can't be given, there is abundant rain during this time to fill up the tank.

Q6: What's the lifespan of the tank? Can it be used year after year?
A6: With the straw mat on top to protect the plastic, water tank can last up to three years before upkeep is needed. So the water tanks can be used year after year. Only part that requires replacement is the plastic covering the tank. In the future, we may explore ways to extend the life of the plastic or replace it with another material altogether. 

Thanks again and please let me know if there are more questions.

Water Harvesting Tank Project

Continuing on from my last post, inhabitants who live in rural areas spend a bulk of their time securing a source of water even in a country like Uganda where rain can be plentiful. Some of the consequences are: loss of producitivity/income, illiteracy for children who often walk miles to retrieve water, and diseases from drinking contaminated water.

I had an opportunity to participate in building a water harvesting tank few weeks back. We visited a rural area about 35 KM from Masaka.

To build a tank, a hole is dug that's around 10x10 and this effort takes around 4 to 6 hours for two people.

Once the hole has been dug, few more materials are required.

• cement and bricks for the perimeter
• tarpauline for the pit
• plastic sheet for cover and seal water from contamination
• nails
• wooden planks for cover

Speaking of wooden planks, I was able to capture a photo of ladies from the village carving the trees for us here.

Next, we placed the tarpaulin inside the pit and used the planks and nails to fix the tarp in place. We also nailed a wooden box with a door so that water can be accessible and protected from contamination. Afterwards, planks were place in a grid pattern to create a frame for the plastic cover.

Next, we placed the plastic cover on top of the planks and began laying the bricks around the perimeter.

Once the bricks are in place, we use the cement to fill the gaps.

Once the perimeter has been cemented and filled, it's almost done... You can see that the thick plastic seals the water from the outside - doing so the contaminants won't pollute the reservoir. In this picture, he went inside to to clean.

Finally, we took a straw mat and overlaid it on top of the plastic for extra protection. Here is what the door looks like after our work was completed.

When the rains come, a drainage pipe (not shown) connected to the roof will be placed in the water tank; the rain will be "harvested" for later use.

 Altogether, this took a day (minus the time for digging the ditch) at a total cost of $200 USD.

 What does this mean for the family? This particular tank will supply a family of four for three months (coincidentally the length of dry season in Uganda). Meaning...

• No lost productivity
• No sickness
• No illiteracy

Our team is currently looking to build more tanks. Please let me know if you are interested in helping us out! (Email me at felixjpark@gmail.com)

REAP and Field Survey

I am going to digress a bit and talk about work that I have been involved in.

In Masaka town, there are a number of small NGOs that formed when big organizations operated here several years ago. Many of them operated here when there was a surging epidemic of AIDS/HIV. Although the rate of occurence still approaches around 60%, big organizations left Masaka as they realized progress would require a long term strategy vs. a quick fix.

One of the small organization left behind that still operates today is REAP - Renewed Efforts to Alleviate Poverty. REAP works together with my organization - FSD - to build water harvesting tanks and plant trees in areas that have been deforested for firewood. Here you can see their mission statement and program scope.

REAP promotes the idea of "Model Homestead." This is a concept that having a home equipped with an outhouse for sanitation, farm for income-generating activities, water tank for irrigation and drinking, etc. enable people to live in an economically and environmentally sustainable manner.

My fellow intern Fennie and I decided to go out in the field and see the work that REAP has been spearheading on a Saturday afternoon. First, we headed out to an area about 20 KMs west of Masaka. Molly from REAP took us to a farm that has worked with REAP previously and now raise pigs and harvests water. Here is a field planted with beans.

 We also saw banana trees planted all across the field. These trees grow well without much upkeep so people plant them wherever land is available.

We also saw some coffee plants that people also used to sell and supplement their income.

We also witnessed some interesting farming techniques that have increased the yield and produced better crop. Below you see an avocado plant that has been grafted to another plant. This enables the plant to produce the fruit faster. Also farmers use brown banana leaf to shield the sappling from the sun. And a water bottle is used to fill up and planted in the ground near the sappling. In time, the water slowly seeps through the clay-like soil and ends up "irrigating" the plant. Organizations like SEAP transfer such knowledge and better techniques to these subsistence farmers.

Next we visited a family that was raising pigs. These are the two boys from this home. When I took my cap off, they were absolutely amazed by my hair color.

In the back there were pig pens and the farmer spoke to us about challenges and past succeses.

And here I encountered my favorite pig "Babe." He was kind enough to smile for the camera.

We went and visited another house/farm probably 1 KM down the road. And I came across an amazing device:

This bicycle above was built from scratch by a seven year old. It's amazing. People just need the right tools and materials and they will help themselves.

Molly also took us to a hand washing station. Many households still lack running water so they take a jerry can and rig it up to a stick that can be pressed to pour water on your hands.

 Kids around the neighborhood saw us and followed us around. This girl kept staring us in awe...

Before we left the area, we then saw some examples of water tanks in rural Masaka. In the town, most building have water tanks that harvest rain water for general use like washing, etc. in addition to the running water that people pay to use. In rural areas, people don't have money to purchase these giant tanks. Instead they go to a contaminated well miles away to retrieve water. As a result, kids and women spend a good deal of time carrying 50 lb. cans of water just for irrigation or drinking...

Instead people dig open holes/wells to collect rain water. Those who can afford it may even place plastic on the bottom to keep water from leaking into the soil. But this breeds mosquitoes and further contaminates the water.

In another farm, we saw a covered water harvesting tank. This keeps the contaminants out... I'll cover the construction of these tanks in the next entry.

On the Road to Nairobi Episode III – Town of Busia, Kenyan border

Around midnight, the bus finally reached the border checkpoint. Everyone got off the bus and trudged along to the immigration office which was a building that was no bigger than 10x10.  Right outside, there were a swarm of money changers who cry out "Do you need dollar for visa?" or "I offer good rates."

A firm wave of the hand or a No usually did the trick.

After paying the visa fee to Kenya ($25) and receiving the visa, I went and used the restroom.

Coming out, I was accosted by a man who demanded that I pay 10 Kenyan Shillings which is roughly 8 cents. I fumbled for my coins and finding none so I handed him a 100 Kenyan Shilling bill and asked for change.

Then, he reached into his pocket and handed me 50 Kenyan Shillings while reciting "because you are my brother, I'll have small change for soda" with a crooked grin. I quickly snatched away the bill and handed him 10 Shillings from my friend.

Lesson #3: Be careful when you meet your new brothers and sisters.

On the Road to Nairobi Episode II – Midnight express to Nairobi

We decided on Akamba Co. for our transportation which operates typical coach bus that seats 44 people. We were unfortunately seated towards the back of the bus which meant that every bump would be amplified and send a shock wave through our bodies.

The entire night was spent in agony as the road to Nairobi was filled with cracks and potholes that made the roads look like a half completed jigsaw puzzle.

After 3 hours, we stopped for water and bathroom. I got off the bus and looked for a sign but instead saw a stream of people disappearing into bushes. I followed a man thinking he would lead the way but found him happily going about his business in a shaded area.

Lesson #2: When you gotta go, you gotta go.

On the Road to Nairobi Episode I – Shopping in Kampala

After three hours on a small 12 seater van that was meant to seat 8, we arrived in Kampala.

We needed to grab dinner and purchase some food before we boarded our night bus to Nairobi around 7 PM. The drive was scheduled to take 13 hours so having some snacks seemed like a good idea. In downtown Kampala, there is a shopping outlet area with a cluster of several stores. The largest of them is called Nakumatt store which resembles a miniature Wal-Mart. I am guessing that this store’s size would be roughly a quarter of a Walmart’s.

Once we had arrived at the store, I remembered that I needed calcium pills to supplement my diet. This is because a typical Ugandan meal consists of rice, matooke (mashed plantains), potatoes, sweet potatoes, beef or pork with sauce, cassava, and sometimes eggs.

Food is very carb heavy and lack protein - but most importantly calcium is missing in their regular diet. You will see many elderly Ugandans who suffer from osteoporosis and other bone – related ailments…

Going back to the Nakumatt story, I found some cupcakes, macademia nuts, and water. I also found a bottle of 30 calcium pills imported from US that cost 30,000 UGX which is $15 USD. Nearby store employee explained that taxes and transportation costs just made things very expensive. Worse, the pills only amounted to 30% of recommended daily dosage which meant I needed to take 3 a day. But I decided taking 1 a day should be sufficient so I grabbed two bottles.

After paying for the items and exiting the store, I ran into Scott, my fellow intern, who offered to give his extra calcium pills. So I decided to return one bottle and keep one just in case I needed some extra pills.

Here is where things got screwy. I went in and approached the employee at the Returns store counter

Me: Hi. I am looking to return this item that I purchased 5 minutes ago.
Employee: (Grimacing) What’s wrong with the item?
Me: Nothing. I just realized I don’t need two bottles and need just one.
Employee: (After some hesitation) Ok. We can refund this item. I’ll go ahead and issue a store credit.
Me: Actually, I’ll take cash since I don’t live in Kampala and it is very unlikely that I’ll need to spend 30,000 UGX…
Employee: That’s store policy. We can’t give your money back.
Me: No, on your receipt it only says that returns after 7 days are invalid. I don’t see any prints about store credits.
Employee: I can’t help you – talk to the manager over there.
After five minutes:

Returns Manager: May I help you?
Me: I need to return this item.
Returns Manager: What’s wrong with it?
Me: There is nothing wrong with it. I have too many pills and I just need one bottle.
Returns Manager: Did you open it?
Me: Does it look like it’s opened? (Already getting riled up) The plastic band is still attached.
Returns Manager: Ok… Let me issue a store…
Me: Nope I don’t need a store credit. I don’t live here. I don’t need to buy 30,000 worth of stuff from here.
Returns Manager: It’s policy.
Me: Policy only works if two parties agree upon a condition and both parties are aware of the condition. The whole credit only policy is news to me. I don’t see the policy announced anywhere and it’s not on the receipt.
Returns Manager: I understand but it’s policy.
Me: Nope, you are not understanding me. I have been told about this policy five minutes ago. Unacceptable.

At that point, another guy in green lumbers in and talks to the Returns Manager rapidly. I got really pissed and decided to repeat my story. I told him I won’t leave until I got my cash back. I emphasized my position with some nice language illustrating my frustration.

Green guy seemed to get irritated and walked over to a counter without a word and grabbed the money and handed to me.

Lesson #1: Don’t take things for granted or you will find unnecessary drama.

Africa-Middle East Summit and Exhibition - Nairobi, Kenya

I am currently in Nairobi, Kenya attending the Microfinance Summit. I will be providing updates and uploading pictures in few days. One observation I want to share is that all attendees are so enthusiastic and looking to share ideas.

And yes - heartfelt gratitude and thanks to all who have helped us to get here...

Thank You.

"It's Over"

In the town of Masaka which is located about 15 minutes away from my host family's house, there are exactly two places that you can get "mzungu" foods. One is called Ten Tables which serves the typical steak and potatoes affair with the higher price and another is called Bananah Chick that serves omelettes, french toast, and fries.

Most foreigners congregate at Bananah Chick because of its central location and cheaper prices. Often we as a group go around past seven to grab something quick to eat. As it happens, I went to grab something to eat.

Bananah Chick's menu is short and simple featuring misspelled words:

• Scrambled Eggs
• Spanish Omelettes (eggs + vegetables)
• French Toast
• Slice of bread with Jam or Butter
• Samosas (vegetable + beef)
• Courted (quartered) chips (potatoes)
• Fried Chips (potatoes)
• Fried Fish

Doesn't offer a plethora of choices but it's a nice diversion away from rice and carb-heavy diets. Often the conversation with the servers go like this:

Me: Can I get a menu?

Server: Here it is.

Me: Umm, can I get a French Toast with Fried Chip?
Server: Umm sorry but French Toast and Fried Chips are over.
Me: Oh, okay... let me get some samosas - do you have vegetable ones?
Server: Umm sorry but samosas are also over.
Me: Hmm, how about beef samosas?
Server: They are also over.
Me: Shoot then what's available?
Server: We have fried fish and scrambled eggs.
Me: Oh good. I'll get scrambled eggs.

five minutes later...

Server: I'm sorry but the scrambled eggs are now over.
Me: Is there anything left?
Server: We only have slice of bread with butter and not with jam.
Me: Fine I'll take that.

Although, this sounds fictional, the conversation above takes place every time. Service here is like a box of chocolates - you'll never know what you'll get until you ask.